10.12.09 – Copenhagen, Malmo

The Copenhagen adventure had a typical start: bicycle ride to Maastricht Station with bags too heavy, stocked with food, clothing and other provision; #50 bus to Aachen HBF; kill time in Aachen upon boarding train to next destination, in this case, Wupertol, Germany. However, with this trip, one cannot use the term typical from Aachen station on, and one must underscore the word ADVENTURE, for this weekend contained the greatest ADVENTURES thus far.

It all started when Josh, Mike, Eli and I had to wait 25 minutes in Aachen for our train to Wupertol. Now this wouldn’t be such a problem if we didn’t have a 14 minute window in Wupertol to catch our sleepr car directed straight for Copenhagen. Eventually, we got to Wupertol Central – eventually because we went to a minor Wupertol station first…and of course the delay. We found out later on that someone decided to lay down in the train tracks so the police shut down part of our route. Upon realizing we needed to alter our transportation plans, we also realized that Deeda, a nice, well traveled, 30 year USA national figure skating veteran, from Alabama, had the same schedule as we did, except she ended in Berlin. Considering she was traveling alone to see her son studying abroad, and she also spoke fluent German, we encouraged her to join our motley crew of unshaven, highly charming and somewhat cruede manly men. So after receiving new itineraries and vouchers for refunds on our sleeper car reservations, the five of us continued to Dusselldorf, where we killed 3 hours in a McDonald’s over a bottle of wine, horrible tasting German equivalence of chocolate covered pretzels, and of course highly stimulating conversation. At about 2:30 AM we got our non-sleeping train to Hamburg. He arrived in Hamburg at about 7:00 AM, took a picture with Deeda immediately right before she took off for Berlin. We then were finally one stop away from Copenhagen or so we thought. While the guys grabbed some morning grub I labor to get our 20 euro each reservation refunded by the train people. Almost got to yelling but it was a success. So we were on our way….Not So Fast.

To our happy surprise, 2 hours into the journey our 4 car train boarded the belly of a Scandilines cruiseliner to cross the Baltic to Denmark. We were mandated to temporarily exit the train and, to our pleasure, climb on the deck. The 4 of us plopped ourselves at the panoramic window at the front of the boat to watch it navigate through the icy and rough Baltic waters. As we neared the Danish coast, I decided to go to the deck to view the nearing wind turbine fields. Obviously fascinated by the turbines, Danish renewable energy and sustainable development projects, and local impressions on those topics, I struck up a conversation with the captain of the ship. About 5 minutes into great dialogue I realized that I had to board my train. I dashed down the stairs, asked some frantic questions on the barren 2nd floor, and bolted to the boat’s belly to find everything, docked up, open and empty. Sprinting down the tracks within the boat, I asked 2 dock workers where the Copenhagen train was. Mind you, I left my cell on the train with all of my other belongings. Both workers pointed through the opening in the gate outside of the boat in the near distance. I was freaking out now. “Run!” they said with a smirk of foolishness. On the close horizon, I saw a small train at a platform with two blue speckles mulling around outside. Never have I run so fast. Sprinting on the iron and rocky tracks, bounding over rocks and leaping onto the cement platform, I jolted to the 2 speckles, hollering bloody murder, “Wait….Please…..Wait….. Copenhagen….WAIT!!!!” with my hands waiving like mad in the air. Thank god the 2 blue speckles, to which I now realized were suited conductors, saw me running for my life or else I would have been absolutely stranded. Now that’s ADVENTURE. The 3 others, nestled safely and warmly on the train were un-visibly relieved to see me actually join them for the duration of the trip. All that matters is that I made it. The conductor said after that if I had not run they would’ve left.

What I learned from the Captain about Danish environmental policy: The power plant companies build the turbines throughout Denmark. He likes how they can produce clean energy. The island we were docked on, consisting of 120 houses, is all heated by hydrogen and I think powered mostly by wind. He intimated that the Danish were very proud of their environmental initiatives and practices.

I would’ve loved to talk longer but I would’ve actually missed my train. So, FINALLY, 18 HOURS LATER we arrived in Copenhagen, pretty exhausted but determined to maximize our first day in the city we so longed to see. From the ornate dark wood ceiling train station, we checked into our lodging, Hotel Copenhagen, to drop off our still, very heavy luggage, and gather our bearings on our newest city. Hostelworld review: “Although very tight, comfortable rooming. Beds and comforter better than a 5 star Marriot. Manageably clean. Overly helpful staff. Free internet-love it! Although you pay for breaky it is worth it. 20 min. walk from center city, and 5 minute walk to metro or bus. Location not ideal but VERY doable. A must stay place.”

Friday afternoon we trained from our Islands Brygge metro station to Nytorv Kongens, which lead us to the picturesque center city view of The Old Stage Theater, the nearby canal, and square. We first arranged our canal tour tickets, and then strolled to Rosenborg Castle where we became distracted by the always funny and silent marching guards. To our disappointment and dearth of time, we were unable to fully tour the castle, so we settled for a highly accidental, spontaneous, but very informative meeting at the Danish Commission building with Head of Information civil servant Martin Astrom. I was drawn to the building by the Climate Change sign and just simply walked in and asked for information. It was a total fluke that they let us all in. What we learned from the conversation, some notes:

The Danish Commission’s current priorities are the following in order: 1. Climate Change (COP15) 2. Lisbon Treaty 3. Employment issues 4. Education (secondary level). The Danish Commission’s responsibility is to help adapt, integrate and amplify, to the national and municipal governments and their citizens, the legislations and objectives of the EU, and filter Brussels’ messages to fit the preferences of locals. The Commission’s national offices are crucial because they can mitigate the amount of EU publicity going on and help educate their constituents about EU actions and restrictions. Martin implied though that they need to limit the amount of press the EU receives for fear of having people “turn off the TV” on them, both literally and figuratively. Martin also noted that working for the Commission in Brussels was much easier than in Denmark because in Brussels he had strength in numbers, whereas away from the capitol more opposition and ignorance exists. Martin feels as though the “EU needs to provide itself to Danes…it needs to deliver…needs to approach EU from a pragmatic point of view”, implying that The Commission in Denmark needs to work to frame its objectives in an advantageous forum, to therefore stimulate understanding, desire and hopefully appreciation from the local Danes. In regards to the COP 15 he stated that in Denmark wind turbines are the big hit on the renewable market, specifically Vestas. He also alluded to the fact that Germany was the biggest turbine market. He commented that business in Denmark is adaptable to policy. For COP15 he clarified what exactly was occurring in the city and in preparation for the historical conference. He explained that the Swedish prime minister would speak for the EU voting bloc, the Commission would negotiate the legislation, and the Danes were the hosts.

From Martin’s highly valuable information discussion we sprinted, especially to Josh’s belt’s dismay, to catch our frigid and windy canal tour, in which we just veg-ed out in the back of the boat, eating the fruit, Pringles, carrots we brought, and unable to hear anything blaring from the dismal speakers. Luckily, a Danish woman sat in front of us and she explained what we were seeing. Once over, and thankfully so because icicles might have been forming around our bodies, we serendipitously found in the center of Nytorv Kongens the European Environment Agency (EEA) and the UN Climate Change Conference’s (UNCCC) joint event on educating people on Climate Change and the topics discussed at the upcoming COP15. It was strictly by chance that I found my ‘green’ people. I was attracted by a giant poster above the door and a circus-like dressed woman handed me a brochure without hesitation saying that environmental topics and exhibits were inside, along with free food! I knew everyone would be happy.

The Climate Circus event, hosted in the facilities of the EEA turned out to be far better than anything I could’ve imagined. Also a real career booster in terms of education. We strolled around the event for a few minutes, scoping out the different exhibits, and asking various logistical questions, mine being “Are there any environmental economists here?” Before sitting down with the “experts” around 7:30 PM, (“experts” = EEA employees who specialize in certain topics (eg chemistry) but are well versed on issues on and related to climate change) we then followed are noses to the basement for a sporf (spoon-fork-knife all in one utensil) oriented meal of organic soup, fruits, bread and cake. Nothing better than a hot, healthy and filling all-you-can-eat-buffet meal that cost absolutely nothing. And especially after the frigid canal tour a warm meal really hit the spot. Fully satiated, and away from two random old-school Israelis that Josh was networking with, the four of us sat down with ‘expert’ climatologist Francois Dejean, a chemist by trade. The four of us gathered around with our comfortable chairs to discuss everything. Because Josh, Eli and Mike had been hearing me preach all weekend they were well versed on the topic and contributed a slew of valuable questions. As the conversation deepened and Francois and his some of colleagues who came by, and I, began talking specifics on all related topics to climate change multiple camera people and video recorders began documenting the occurrences taking place in our little group. All four of us guys began to get some serious press. Midway through, Mike, Josh and Eli left to nap up for our night out, but I couldn’t leave until I was all talked out – a total cloud 9 experience. After an interview with the filmmaker, some contact info exchanging and some souvenir collecting, which included free annual reports and an official EEA expert collared shirt, I metroed bak denating the night thus far a highly spirited, educational, and enjoyable night of climate discussion.

At the hotel, I found the guys asleep. Remember we hadn’t gotten any sleep except a few hours max in our train chairs that night. Still energized to see the city, Josh, the usual biggest fan of going out, and I, put it in overdrive and trekked back into the city. The main objective for returning to the city was because we had found out that night that this night in Copenhagen was the once a year Culture Night, where museum, exhibits, stores and parks remain open until late, and everyone in the city celebrates Danish culture. We strolled aimlessly following the crowds passing by massive drum circles, back alley bands and orchestras, various dance performances, herds of button wearing museum enthusiasts, and of course local Danes of all ages, races and religions. Some highlights were certainly the army barracks’ tank, jeep and supplies experience, where we could actually enter into all of these vehicles, the roasted pig on the stake, the 30 person group drum session and our cheap margarita pizza. By now it was almost 11 and we decided that it was time to pack it in. I couldn’t have asked for a better day and a better time to come to Copenhagen. Missing the sleeper car, running after a train, a mission with the commission, a climate change event and culture night. But it got better.

Because Friday we only did one major touristy thing, Saturday became the day to “do the city”. In the morning I went to synagogue at the Copenhagen Synagogue on 12 Krystalgade street and the guys went to two museums, the Guinness Book of World Records and the Danish Resistance Museums. By now I have become very good at finding these hidden European synagogues. The trick is to look for very pedestrian Jewish appearing people standing unusually along the street, usually near official city policemen or security guards. After navigating the interrogation, I entered the remarkable rectangular shaped sanctuary. It was two stories; with Corinthian pillars lining the sides – obviously women on the top floor. The bima (stage) and ark were among the grandest and biggest I have ever seen. Apparently the Jewish synagogue received minimal WWII damage.

Before meeting back up around 12:30 PM at the Rosenborg Castle, I walked with a congregant and his son through the central square to view a Palestinian protest. It was interesting to see such a protest in Europe. I held my tongue because I had a deadline to meet. Rosenborg Castle was gallant, with jewels, crowns, paintings and tapestries. Each room had something somewhat unusual but unique about it. It is becoming the case that most castles look pretty similar. After some lunch we took a 3 PM Chistianborg English tour. The palace enforced its visitors to wear blue plastic shoe covers, in which Mike and I decided it would be best to also place the covers on our heads. Between our comical but educational questions to our young, relatively attractive, and very enthusiastic tour guide, and of course the blue nylon covers awkwardly positioned on our heads, the other party in our group, a father and son, decided to leave - so we had a private tour. We learned, and joked the whole way. So much fun! Just to note, apparently the massive table was at one point a S______, not a “stage”, but a staircase.

From Christianborg we walked back to Nytorv Kongens, through Camp Sweden (will explain in a second), and metroed to Christiana, the ultra hippy, very sleazy, and most liberal and un-institutional area of Denmark. Completely unintentionally we ended up not only taking pictures of all of the graffiti and often unseen activities, but on the drug-filled Pusher street. After getting away from the drug dealers on Pusher, and after some winter clothing window shopping, a few purchases, and some more cautious strolling we decided it would be best to leave prior to dusk and return to our hotel to organize ourselves and prepare for the night ahead, but nothing could prepare us for what was to experience. NOTHING!

Saturday night, at 8 PM, at the Parken (local stadium), Denmark’s national team was hosting Sweden’s national team. For the Danish, a victory over the Swedes would enable them to qualify for the 2010 South Africa World Cup. This match between the two neighboring and healthily oppositional countries only occurs once a year, and to this magnitude because it was a South Africa qualifier match, made experiencing this the matchup in Copenhagen a once in a lifetime experience. Naturally, as European football (which means soccer) fans stereotypically are renowned for, they mobbed the streets, demonstrated their colors in any way possible, and of course drank heavily. Much of the events started in various camps stationed throughout the city, like Camp Sweden, which was a central city green space consumed by Swedish fans. Eager to join in on the event, and directly experience the atmosphere of Euro football matches, we rushed through a terrible dinner at Sam’s Karaoke Bar, while simultaneously being forced to sadly hear 3 Danish karaoke songs sung by a blind man. Never seen a blind man do karaoke before. Afterwards, we sped down the Stroget (Ostergade) to the city hall center square where we were thought there would be a screen displaying the football match. No screen was there, which we soon found out later was because they wanted to prevent riots – not so lucky. First we ended up at a pub down the street standing outside watching the game with a group of people. About ten minutes in 3 Danish appearing guys surrounded me and the two kids in front of me and began provoking us to fight them. I said no, and started to walk away with Eli, but two of them followed me and one pushed me. After a slight imbalanced pose, I square my shoulders, stared him in the eyes and said “I do not want to fight.” And that was it. I am not sure why he backed away but I think he got it. I was ready to use my Krav Maga training and potential fighting crazy eyes to defend myself, but I realized later that it was so good that I didn’t fight. It is my belief that because I was wearing a dark sock hat, a nylon coat and white sneakers, and looked un-Danish, that I possibly was thought to be a Sweden supporter, and it’s important to note that hooligans don’t really watch the game I learned, rather they just want to defend their country, flaunt their colors and fight anyone.

After the altercation we were all a little confused, especially me. I couldn’t grasp this whole fighting concept. Up the street we situated ourselves outside another pub on a few chairs surrounded by all Swedish fans. At halftime, around 9:30 PM, the Swedish hooligans came out from the pub and into the street to cheer and taunt any passerby Danish fans. They yelled, “Where are the Danes” trying to lure in random Danish hooligans to rumble with. Around 9:45 PM, as the game’s second half commenced, apparently some Danish fans threw a glass bottle into the bar of Swedish hooligans. Immediately after hearing the glass break and watching a few people, including Josh, get up and sprint up the street, I immediately jumped up, and dashed away, tearing off my jacket and hat for fear that I would be suspected of looking like a hooligan as well. Eli and Mike soon followed, and just barely made it. We were warned by some Swedish fans earlier that there would be a massive fight in the street in a little bit but we had no idea to what extent and that it would be during the game as well! From our hideout 20 meters up the road and behind police tape and scattered vans, we witnessed the riot guards combat the Danish and Swedish hooligans. Glasses, chairs and tables, including the ones we were sitting on were used as weapons. The police was on the scene almost immediately because undercover cops had been stationed in our crowd and various cameras lined the street’s corners. By five minutes into the riot at least 8 vans must have blocked the street on both sides of the pub and the attack dogs were on the prowl. It was so scary and surreal. By the end of the night, the massive Danish police had arrested at least 50 people; many of them appeared around age. We were very lucky to not have gone and that we were able to escape just in time. What a scene. Our first every European football experience – very real!

While the police took control of the scene and loaded up the dozens of prisoners into their vans headed for jail, Josh found two girls from Gettysburg College and a series of America abroad, DIS program, friends. The new founded group of American students finished off the night at the La Hacienda club and bar. The night was a true success. Overall, Saturday, was just as crazy as Friday. Enjoyable sight-seeing, a crazy blue-shoe-cover-wearing-castle-tour, a fearful experience at the sleazy Christiana, near death experiences from Danish and Swedish hooligans and a fun night out. Total out of body!

Sunday, after checking out of the hotel, we galvanized at the train station and locked up our luggage for we were traveling to Malmo, Sweden for the day. Country number 11! Although overcast and drizzly, Malmo was a beautiful and integrated little Swedish city with a beautiful, old and modern center city, tons of shopping and very laid back people – I never saw so many articles of sweatpants in one European city since I arrived in August. For the duration of visit, our city highlights and viewings entailed: Canal strolling, St. Peter’s Church, Town Hall, Strortorget city center, the mall, Malmo Opera House, Malmohus park, Slottstradgarden, which is the smallest and coziest organic garden café in the city and where we got hot chocolate and dessert, Malmuhus castle and museum, and the Turning Turso – in that order. Of course we did some window searching because ideally, you buy all of your winter clothing in Sweden, because they are the specialists. Although the street cobblestones were slippery and the weather eh, and the shlep on the train to and from the city was tiring, Malmo, overall was gorgeous, relaxing, for the most part, and an excellent decision to see. Around 4:45 PM we made the train back to Copenhagen (they run every 20 minutes).

For our last hour in Copenhagen Eli, Mike and I enjoyed Tivoli Gardens’ once a year Halloween lights. Again, what better weekend to come to Copenhagen?! The three of us took millions of pictures with various hat, facial expression, and costume combinations. We also took pictures with random people, like the big purple fairy tailed costume woman, a group of random South East Asians, and in Mike’s case, a random little boy – not exactly what it implies. The lights at Tivoli were so memorable. It was amazing how they could cover everything with autumn colored tinges. Once satisfied with Tivoli, but moreso knowing our 6:53 train deadline neared, around 6:30 PM we chose to collect our luggage and board the train. Eli and I got the two top couchettes in a six person sleeper cabin, while Josh and Mike opted for seats. The train back for Eli and I was truly a man’s adventure as well. Thankfully, we arrived back at Maastricht some 15 hours later at 10 AM, which gave me just enough time to prepare for my Climate Change presentation for my tutorial class at 1:30 that afternoon.

Copenhagen overall was by far the city with the nicest people, except of course the hooligans. It also has the cleanest and safest metro system. It is so progressive with its environmental policies, and very liberal with many other social concepts, except taxes. It felt pretty safe at night, and was so much fun at all hours of the day. It got cold as the day’s sun leveled but nothing unmanageable, yet. This weekend was by far my most ADVENTUROUS and enjoyable weekend. This permutation of guys created an environment where I had never laughed nor enjoyed as many out of body experiences in my life. I think Copenhagen was my most fun weekend yet! Returning to Copenhagen again for sure!