10.06.09 – Oktoberfest, Vienna and Bratislava

3 Countries. 3 Cities. 1 Weekend

That is the underscored title for this weekend. Mike, Josh and I rushed out of Maastricht on the 8:18 Aachen (#50) bus. The three of us actually returned just the day before from our respective trips to London and Greece; but charged for another power weekend and without any hesitancy to embark on another European adventure. From Aachen we trained to Koln, officially commencing our Eurail Pass’s payback process. Then we killed about an hour outside Koln’s station by scoping out the city’s incredible cathedral. At 11:45 PM we boarded our overnight train to Munich. The sleeper cabin held six, 3 and 3, and although small it felt cozy and served its purpose – a decent night sleep and arriving for THE OKTOBERFEST bright and early.

By 8 AM Friday morning we were meters away from the locked doors of the Hofbrau House, the festival’s apparently most notorious tent, and it had a sign above, ironically and surprisingly saying, “Festmirte: Familie Steinberg.” Dad, I did not realize that you were sponsoring the Kiddush at the Hofbrau house. After some line shuffling, people pushing, boxing out, sprinting for a table and sitting and waiting some more, the first rounds came out to a large, anticipatory and anxious uproar from the hundreds of thirsty beer and culture enthusiasts. The first table served held their liter glass mugs in the air and everyone cheered. What was fascinating about the Hofbrau tent, besides the unusually old looking 21 year old Swiss guys in matching shirts next to us, were the scores of American abroad students, including 60 students from U Penn. By 10:30 AM everyone was being served and therefore standing on benches and tables, clinking glasses with newfound friends around them and not having a worry in the world, except having enough money for the next drink. What a site! To be honest, although pricy, we found our beer very tasteful.

From the Hofbrau tent we grabbed some bite, Mike and I tried on maybe ten different festival themed hats, to the shopkeeper lady’s dismay, and went on a 5 lopped roller coaster. Yes I went on a roller coaster. First by myself and then second with Mike. Oktoberfest was full of carnival games, amusement rides, various themed tents and of course large quantities of beer. A real cultural attraction. By 3:00 PM it was time to catch our train to our next destination. It was good timing, as things at Oktoberfest were getting wildly fun. Yet our 3:30 train decided not to show, and then even more discouraging was that we missed the next train at 5:30 because we were taking naps on the platform benches – don’t worry, at least we were all together. So at 6 PM, and very tired from the long day, we boarded a train for Salzberg, where at 8 we transferred to our Vienna train. We finally found our hostel, hostel Ruthensteiner by 11:30.

Hostelworld review: “hotel like accommodations. Everything clean. Fun, friendly and lively atmosphere. Impeccably helpful staff – way more than they had to be. Great location for price. Only complaint – no free breakfast or internet.” In my hostel room I met two brothers, Aaron and Alistair, from Australia. We had a very enlightening and intellectual conversation about many world topics, like economics, politics, travel etc. During our conversation Aaron made a few distinct and unforgettable comments: 1. Upon Aaron’s USA grayhound travels this past summer he found Americans to be un-trusting and with a “I will do my thing and you will do yours” mentality. 2. Aaron referred to America as “The Land of the Free.” Kinda of refreshing to hear that considering the recently Bush era manifested anti-American sentiment. 3. After spending a year teaching in China, Aaron expressed that he found that the government was infusing into the many young Chinese students’ heads an idea of “When China dominates the world…” so and so will happen… Fascinating conversation.

Saturday morning, after mapping out a plan, Mike and Josh walked the whole center city, while I went to Sukkot services at the Main Synagogue on 4 Seitenstettengrasse St. I am starting to learn that most European synagogues have undercover, pedestrian appearing security around the vicinity. These ‘guards’, from the ‘Jewish Community’, must know everything about me because they asked maybe 50 questions. Serious interrogation. It makes sense but it is extremely intensely invasive. Nonetheless, services were comforting and reflective, partially due to the beautifully domed sanctuary, but certainly slightly inhibited by the constant talking.

At 1 PM we reconvened to finish seeing the major city attractions. We saw the Spanish riding school, Hoher market clock, magnificent Gothic Stephensplatz cathedral, monotonous Mozart House, walked through the uniquely engineered Hundertwasser haus and Kunt haus and ended up around 4 at the Prater Stern amusement park. The amusement park was quite grand and extensive. We strolled through the alleys of rides, coasters and kiddies, examining and envisioning each ride’s toss and turn, throttle, thrill and thrust. At 5 ish we chose to ride the Weiner Riesenrad, one of the world’s oldest wooden car ferris wheels, and a real symbol of Vienna. From our car we got some incredible panoramic views of the city.

After the wheel, we subwayed back first to walk around the Hofsburg palace, the opera house, Parliament, the Raut haus, and the museums, and then continued onto our hostel for a quick shower, change and pesto dinner, our own supplies brought from Maastricht. Then we dashed onto the #58 tram line for our 8:30 Mozart concert at the Schlos Schonbrunn, Vienna’s giant, Versailles like in shape, palace. Just making it in time, the usher escorted us to the last row of the palace’s historical room; of course the cheapest and most last minute seats available. The concert was called Schonbrunner Schlosskonzerte. It comprised of Mozart’s classical pieces and Joseph Haydan (Mistro), opera singing and ballet dancing. I think it was love themed, and most likely ended happily – it was all in German so I am actually not really sure. Despite our seat placement, we could see everything quite well, and had the liberty to stand whenever we desired because no one was behind us. What a performance! So good that we waited around afterwards for everyone to file out for pics. To our luck the mistro returned and we got pictures with him and were allowed onto the stage to sit around and examine the different instruments and stands. Just unbelievable! 3 college guys, the day after they attended the great Oktoberfest, use their Vienna Saturday night to dress up, collar, button down and khakis, to go to a classical orchestra! Our parents must have done something right when raising us.

Sitting next to me at the concert was an Iranian Muslim woman named Fatima. She is studying for her PhD in Chemistry in London and was in Vienna for a conference. Very progressive thinking and very informed on world issues. I couldn’t help but ask her questions on Iran’s foreign policies and Ajhmadinijad (however that is spelled). Like I expected, as an Iranian women studying in a ‘western’ country she was very open in thought, stating her dissention for Ajhmadinijad, and the probably rigged election (she called it that). She was also confident of the probability of Iranian scientists’ abilities to develop nuclear weaponry. I then asked her opinion on the Israel-American-Iran relations, to which she responded “Israel is very powerful…the Jews are very powerful.” She said it in an almost admirable way. Later on we talked religion, I told her I was Jewish and we both commented on the difficulties of maintaining vegetarian diets while in Europe, due to Halal and Kosher dietary restrictions, and in her case no alcohol either; that’s when I told her that I was at Oktoberfest the day before. The last thing to highlight from my conversations with Fatima was when I told her I was studying international business, and knowing that I was Jewish she remarked saying, “business? You will be very expensive” implying that because I am a Jew in business I will be wealthy. Fascinating! She was a very nice person. As Josh says, “It is all about relationships…networking…just talking to people.” After the concert we packed it in, not before we did some BRATISLAVA planning.

Vienna overall was surprisingly an incredibly modern, high class, very clean, and historically and architecturally rooted city. It appears that after the war the city made major attempts to recreate its identity. Buildings with old fashion architecture look brand new, but not in a tacky, re-modeling format. Buildings look genuine. People were very pleasant too. And the stores…sometimes I thought it was 5th Ave. Viennese culture and history is rich and the city is beautiful. And exploring its musical roots are well worth the price of the trip itself. Love Vienna, far more than I ever would have guessed.

We woke Sunday morning at 5 AM, for a 5:30 Subway ride to Erdberg station (US line), arriving in the Slovakian capital at the Novy Most station at 7:30 AM. Oh…gotta love church day (Sunday) in Central / Eastern Europe, very religious and x-soviet country. Bratislava was Josh’s vision, and I must say, although ambitious and a little crazy, was a brilliant suggestion. Although we arrived in 7 degrees Celsius cold, with no where to put our bags, and most stores and museums closed, we truly saw the city. By 8 AM we were strolling through the historical center city eyeing the many churches and government buildings, one to note, the Grasselkovich Palace and park, where the mayor lives. Wow! Afterwards we climbed the dozens of steps to the WWII Soviet liberation monument and memorial. Besides the beautiful city view, and intricate monument itself, it was different to witness the Soviet symbols of self acknowledged dominance, a fist clenched, and power. We believe that the Soviets intentionally place the monument above the city. From the monument, around 9 AM, we grabbed breakfast at the first opening store in the whole city, Tesco Supermarket. To quote Josh, upon me eating my meal, “I don’t think I have ever seen you so happy.” Truth is we were all in heaven from the extremely cheap and delicious food we purchased. So Good! From our Tesco eating spree we climbed to the Bratislava Caste to get another great view of the whole city and see the exterior of the castle (a major renovation project was going on). Afterwards we perused through the Jewish culture museum and then made our way for an extremely indigenous Slovak meal at the famous Slovak pub. A little more strolling, some cheap 3 scoops of ice cream for Josh and I, another Tesco spree for myself for dinner while in transport (oh baby!), and a walk back through the historical center wrapped up our Slovak adventure just in time for our 2PM bus. From the bus I went to the airport for my 6 PM flight and the guys went back to Vienna for a final day of touring.

Slovakia overall, specifically Bratislava, was what we had envisioned. Very cheap food, less developed economy and society, and many signs of past Soviet regimes. The Bratislava central community seemed quite religious; whatever denomination of Christianity they practiced. The city wasn’t so clean either. From our view atop the Bratislava castle we could see that on the other side of the Danube River were many urban residential areas and behind them, in the distance, to east horizon was factories, smoke-stacks, and signs of heavy industry, and to the west horizon agriculture and wind turbines. I would definitely like to go back to Bratislava. It is cheap and great fun.

As Josh, the premier country-counter, “#9 done!”